How can I help my leash reactive dog?

How can I help my leash reactive dog?

Many client dogs show some type of reactivity on leash. This means they bark, pull, sometimes lunge and growl, and can be very unpleasant to take on a walk. Occasionally clients are even knocked over or injured by their dog pulling the leash in a fit of reactivity. 

Sometimes clients have a clear idea why their dog is showing this reactivity. The dog may have had a terrible interaction with another dog or maybe was attacked by a loose dog while out on a walk. Others have no idea why their dog behaves this way.  They may have a rescue dog and know little information about the dog's past. Or they had their dog as a puppy and did all the right things, socializing their dog often with other dogs and people but their puppy turned into an adolescent who started lunging and barking on walks. 

As behavior professionals our first job is to determine the motivation and triggers for the dog’s behavior.  There can be several. Fear motivated aggression is one. An example of this is when a dog has been attacked and is now on the defensive when on walks, anticipating another attack and may bark and lunge if another dog is seen. A second cause of reactivity may be that the dog gets frustrated because he is used to meeting lots of dogs or people and now he doesn’t understand that he can’t meet everyone all the time.  Lastly, if a dog was never socialized to other dogs, they will bark nervously at all they see. Dogs may also show this reactive behavior towards people, cars going past and noisy lawn equipment.  Reactivity can develop toward almost any trigger. 

Even though there are several reasons a dog may show reactive behavior and there may be different triggers for each dog, all behavior modification training plans start with 2 requirements. 

1. Create a list of triggers to avoid

What is the dog responding to?  This list is something you can prepare without the help of a professional.  Start by thinking back to the 3 most recent walks you took with your dog.  Now, list all the activities that were going on when your dog showed reactive behavior.  You might come up with things like, 1) it was trash day and the neighbor was bringing in a trash container, 2) you were at the park and someone was walking a large dog within 20 feet, 3) several construction workers wearing hard hats were talking on the sidewalk.  Please note: It’s not necessary to take your dog on a walk and put your dog in stressful situations in order to create this list of triggers.  You will likely gather enough information by using your memory and writing down what you recall.  Consider not only the sights your dog may have seen but also the sounds (dog tags, other barking dogs, construction noises, children playing, loud trucks).  Keep this list handy so you will be prepared when you meet with your behavior specialist. If you can’t figure out the specific triggers then your best option is a conservative approach that avoids all potential triggers. This can mean that you do not go on walks until you receive training.

2. Create a Decompression Plan

The next step is to create a plan to avoid the triggers on your list.   This allows your dog to relax and unwind until training with a behavior specialist starts.  This is going to be your Decompression Plan.  Your plan may include taking your dog on fewer walks and instead focusing on energetic activity in your yard.  For example, using a flirt pole or playing fetch. You may also change up the location of where you walk so you can take your dog to a space where there are few triggers.  Dogs that are triggered by other dogs, especially at apartment complexes, can often be walked comfortably in business parks after hours, or in a church parking lot during the day.  These are locations where there will be few other dogs.  Some people may only need to take avoidant measures while on a walk such as crossing the street to avoid passing the house with the barking dogs in the yard, or moving behind a parked car while a neighborhood dog continues walking across the street.  The important lesson here is to give your dog time to chill out and avoid those triggers.  Don’t fall victim to harmful information that tells you to force your dog to “face his fears” or that he “has to learn” by making him go on walks that are stressful.  That is not training.  It can also worsen your dog’s behavior.  Those ideas are not based on principles of learning that are proven effective.  

If your plan does not completely avoid all walks, then it’s also helpful to have some safety equipment on board so you can control your dog if there’s an emergency.  Safety equipment is typically a front clip harness that will help you control your dog if she lunges.  We also suggest a Martingale collar with a quick snap buckle to be used in tandem with a harness or gentle leader. Do not use a retractable leash. This gives you very little control if your dog lunges toward someone. Use a flat nylon or leather leash. **Prong collars or e-collars (even ones marketed as “humane” or only a means of “communication”) are not appropriate for a dog showing reactivity.  There is a long history of research showing these types of collars can increase reactivity and aggressive behavior (link).

You are now ready to safely live with your dog until your training with a professional starts.  Remember to avoid triggers and engage your Decompression Plan.  

What to do when you can’t get help right away

• Make a list of all the things that drive your dog into a frenzy on walks.

• Avoid!  That’s right, keep the dog home, cross the street, avoid the one house with the barking dogs that makes your dog crazy.

• Build an exercise program that avoids walks. Many dogs are happy playing fetch, tug or find it games in the yard.

• Get some control but only with equipment that will not make matters worse.  Use a well-fitting front-clip harness to give you control if your dog lunges toward another.  

Leash reactivity can be helped by a qualified behavior specialist.  If it takes you a while to find someone skilled and experienced, don’t despair.  Follow the guidelines above to create your Decompression Plan so you can enjoy your life with your dog and avoid the stress of leashed walks.   You’ll already be on the road to having a calm, leashed companion when you're ready to start a training plan with your behavior specialist.